After
more than three decades of Northern New Mexico gardening, I now
recognize that springtime in the Rockies is often surly – with its
surprise snowstorms, cold nights, and windy days – and that Summer
Solstice (June 21) signals the beginning of shorter days and slowed
plant growth, with plants quietly moving toward dormancy.
I once fell into the flawed habit of waiting until spring to tackle
garden activities that are best assigned to the cooler days of late
summer and early fall. No more. As days grow shorter, my gardening
“To-Do” list grows longer. These transitional months serve up
summer-like weather one day and cool fall days the next, tempting me
with the idea that the “art of doing nothing” might be acceptable. Such
an idea is quickly rejected, of course, and replaced with determination
and desire – to keep the garden tidy and lively and to keep an eye on
the profusion of dazzling plants available for late-summer and fall
transplanting.
So
I begin playing the mathematical garden game I call “Divide and
Multiply,” digging and dividing crowded perennials, bulbs and shrubs.
The outcome is countless new plants and cheerful new beginnings, either
in my own garden or those of friends.
The list of
plants that benefit, prefer or require late-summer-into-fall planting
is a long one, and the reasons are pretty simple. Our so-called monsoon
season arrives, with its promise of beneficial moisture, along with
less-intense sunlight, cooler temperatures, plants already creeping
toward dormancy and soil still warm enough to encourage strong root
growth in new transplants. The dormancy issue is an important one,
often overlooked when we rush into springtime planting as a cure for
our winter doldrums.
Just as we are eager to “get going” in spring, plants are also eager to
“get growing” in spring. And what do we do to them? We pluck them from
their happy home in the ground and plant them in another chosen spot,
insisting that they cope with cruel springtime days filled with strong
winds, intense sunlight, and cold, often parched, soil. What’s a plant
to do, but struggle, wither, wane and falter? If we’re lucky, most of
them do manage to live, though weakened and slowed by the assault.
When dividing plants, I prefer a four-tined garden fork, since its
tines are less likely than a shovel blade to slice into and damage
rhizomes and roots. Insert the digging tool a foot or more away from
the plant and, after circling the plant on all sides to loosen the
soil, pry out the entire clump of roots and soil. Gently shake loose
soil from the roots so that the crowns (where roots and stem meet,
usually at soil level) of individual plants are more visible.
Irises – Separate individual rhizomes from the clump, then cut away and
discard the darker (older) portion of each rhizome, keeping those with
succulent white roots. Trim these roots to 5 or 6 inches in length and
cut the foliage (called fans) back to 6 inches in height. Dig a large,
shallow hole to accommodate three to five rhizomes, space them several
inches apart with their “toes” pointed toward the center and their
“heels” toward the outer edge of the hole. Cover roots and rhizomes
with soil and tug gently on the fan until each rhizome is barely
covered with soil, as these drought-tolerant sun lovers appreciate,
even require, the heat of the sun to flower well.
Daylilies – This drought-tolerant plant is a real star of mid-summer,
when both the garden and the gardener need a pick-me-up, perk-me-up
partner. It can be successfully divided in all seasons, but division
every third or fourth year, soon after flowering and before clumps
become large and unwieldy, is preferable. Dig the entire clump and wash
the soil away with a strong stream of water, so that the roots can be
teased apart with less breakage. Trim the foliage to about 6 inches in
height and replant with the crown buried about 2 inches below soil
surface.
Perennials – Salvia, Oriental poppy, hot poker, yarrow, Echinacea,
Rudbeckia, Heliopsis, daisy, Gaillardia, Russian sage, garden phlox,
Hosta and Veronica plants are good candidates for fall division. Dig
the entire clump and, holding the plant with both hands, gently twist
and pull apart to separate into smaller, “fist-sized” divisions. Cut
foliage back by at least half to compensate for root loss.
Place the freshly separated plants into a plastic grocery bag; tie its
handles together to reduce evaporation and store in a cool, shady spot.
Replant at the same depth the plant was previously growing and water
thoroughly to settle soil around the roots. Water every three weeks
until the soil freezes, usually in December.
Visit www.santafebotanicalgarden.org to learn more about how Santa Fe Botanical Garden celebrates, cultivates and preserves the rich botanical heritage and biodiversity of the region.
