GROWING DROUGHT TOLERANT CULINARY HERBS
Susan Bower

Mother Nature has challenged us this year with a fall and winter season of scant precipitation. It is predicted that spring runoff into Santa Fe’s reservoirs and aquifer will be 270/0 of the norm. Even as we are faced with inevitable severe water restrictions, there are still many culinary herbs we can grow successfully in our gardens. By using basic xeriscape gardening principles and choosing the appropriate drought tolerant herbs, we can create a thriving edible ecosystem right outside our homes.

To minimize the amount of water needed by our culinary herbs, it is essential to first address gardening preparation. Most plants absorb very little moisture through their leaves with almost all the water they need getting absorbed through their roots. The more roots a plant has the better able it is to find and absorb water. To develop a good root system the roots need a loose and friable soil. We can help create this by breaking up hard-packed soil with a fork and adding organic matter to the soil in the form of compost, or composted manure. This will loosen the soil, make it more porous, and allow plant roots to stretch out and access moisture. As we water our herbs, this organic matter in our soil will also allow water to move down easily into the root area, rather than running off or pooling on the soil surface. Using drip irrigation will ensure that 90% of the water we apply to our gardens is actually available to the plants and will deliver water directly to the roots.

Using a six to eight inch layer of organic mulch around the herbs will help keep soil temperatures cooler and moister, thereby reducing evaporation and raising humidity. With our alkaline soil some of the best mulches are cotton boll, seasoned compost and pecan hulls. During the growing season, it is best to simply lay the mulch on top of the soil to prevent excess nitrogen depletion that can occur if the mulch is hoed directly into the soil.

Protecting our herbs from the strong northern New Mexico dry winds can help reduce water evaporation from the leaves of the plants. Creating windbreaks with fencing, walls, shrubs and trees will help reduce this moisture loss. Newly seeded herb beds and young transplants can benefit from a raised garden fabric cover, used just until the new roots take hold.

Planning the herb garden before we plant will allow us to take advantage of the characteristics of our garden site, such as sun, shade, wind, soil and access to water. It is wise to choose herb varieties that are naturally adapted to our mountain desert climate and that are native to our area or to a region with a similar climate.

Which culinary herbs are truly drought tolerant and will grow successfully in our high and dry mountain desert gardens? A great number of native medicinal herbs thrive here with little moisture, but many of the culinary herbs have greater water needs. Our home garden is abundant with the easy growing mints, parsley and chives, but these herbs will wilt if lacking water. We have found that the most drought tolerant culinary garden herbs have woody stems and include epazote, oregano, rosemary, garden sage, savory and thyme. These all need little water and are very hardy once they take root.

Epazote (Cenapodium ambrosiodes) is a very tenacious herb and can tolerate the most adverse growing conditions. It can grow in full sun, will reach 3 to 5 feet in height and has serrated leaves that have a camphor-like odor. It retains its flavor, whether fresh and dried. It is a common seasoning in Mexican cuisine, often found in bean dishes, quesadillas, salsas and soups.

Oregano (Origanum sp.) belongs to a genus that includes about 25 species. Arid growing conditions enhance the flavor of oregano, which thrives in full sunshine. The plant will grow from 10 to 24 inches high, with leaves that are oval-like in shape and have an aromatic scent. There are many varieties of oregano, all with their own unique aromas. Oregano is a versatile culinary herb that holds its flavor well in the dried state. It is frequently used in Greek, Italian and Middle Eastern cuisine, chicken dishes, dressings, sauces and herbal seasoning blends.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis and prostrates) prefers full sun and alkaline soils, so is very well suited to our ecosystem. It can grow either upright or prostrate. The upright varieties have shrub like growth and attain heights of 3 to 4 feet, while the prostrate varieties make excellent groundcovers that can trail up to 2 feet. Both have leathery and highly aromatic needle-like leaves with delicate blue, white or pink flowers. Rosemary is a versatile and popular culinary herb used both in its dried and fresh states for marinades, salad dressings, and meat and seafood dishes.

Garden Sage (Salvia officinalis) likes full sun and sandy alkaline soil in which roots do not stay wet. The plant will grow 2 to 3 feet tall and has grayish green or purplish pebbly elongated leaves that are highly aromatic. Dried sage is best stored in the refrigerator or freezer to preserve its flavor and can become rancid if stored improperly. There are many varieties of garden sage and it has long been a favorite ingredient in Thanksgiving turkey and Mediterranean and Italian cooking.

Savory (Saturela sp.) includes both winter and summer savory. Both prefer loose, well-drained soil and plenty of sunshine, with summer savory benefiting from a slightly richer and moister soil. Winter savory is a compact plant that grows 8 to 12 inches high with woody branches and small dark green aromatic leaves with tiny star shaped flowers. Summer savory can reach a height of 2 feet, has succulent leaves and delicate pinkish flowers. The taste of savory is best in fresh form, but it can be dried or frozen. Savory blends well with other herbs and brings out their flavors. Its own perky flavor enhances bean dishes and is used frequently in Mediterranean and German cooking.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) includes innumerable varieties and over 100 species that are happiest in well-drained soil and lots of sunshine. There are both upright and prostrate varieties growing from 2 inches to 1 foot in height, with highly aromatic small slightly pointed leaves in deep greens, variegated tones and gold. Its tiny star shaped flowers bloom throughout the summer in shades of crimson, white and pink. The upright thymes are used the most in cuisine. Thyme is a key ingredient in Creole and Cajun seasonings, and is often used in Mexican soups and sauces, and poultry dishes.

As the growing season approaches and we plan our gardens, we can thank Mother Nature for these aromatic culinary herbs that will tolerate and thrive in drought conditions. By using basic water saving gardening principles and choosing the right drought tolerant plants, our gardens can still flourish in these dry times.

REFERENCES:

Southern Herb Growing, Madalene Hill & Gwen, Barclay, 1987, Shearer Publishing
The Herb Garden Cookbook, Lucinda Hutson, 1987, Texas Monthly Press
Sunset Western Garden Book, 1999, Sunset Publishing Corporation

"How to Garden in a Drought: Think Like a Plant!," Kathy LaLiberte, The Innovative Gardener, www.gardeners.com
"8 steps to a Water-Wise Garden," The Garden Activist, www.gardeners.com